On Thursday, October 31, we descended from Camp 1 to base camp under a bright blue high-altitude sky. The route down to Yak Camp is a bit lively, with some steep fixed-line sections and an ankle biting boulder field, all covered in fresh snow. At Yak Camp we took a break and dumped off some gear that we won't need until we come back up for the summit rotation. After that it was a nice long hike down with an overall elevation drop of almost 4,000'. It was warm and sunny with thick, oxygen-rich air when we arrived at base camp.
Looking at the photo above Camp 1 is on the right side of the flattish right shoulder (southeast ridge). Camp 2 is at the very top of the darkest rock delineating the intersection of the steeper upper mountain and the shoulder. Above Camp 2 travel will mostly be on snow using our crampons. That's my favorite mode of climbing, and I'm looking forward to it.
The sunset was fantastic that evening! The sky remained clear, the moon was out and millions of stars were beginning to reveal themselves while smoke burning from juniper drifted along the ground. Happy Halloween!
November 1 started with some early excitement. Two Chinese climbers got into trouble the evening before and needed to be rescued. The weather wasn't suitable for an immediate rescue, but by 6:00 this morning the helicopter was in full swing. The pilot landed at base camp, dropped off a person and some gear, attached a long-line and took off for the upper mountain. The long-line which extends from the bottom of the helicopter allows the pilot more freedom to access tight areas of the mountain or accomplish a rescue without having to land. Both climbers were rescued successfully, and they both walked away from the chopper after it landed. It wasn't obvious what their condition was but definitely not life-threatening.
After so much excitement and a big breakfast, we settled into the serious business of making red blood cells. It was sunny and warm with no breeze and we were quite comfortable sitting outside in the sun. I managed to get up from my chair to snap a photo.
Taking a shower and doing laundry pretty much wrapped up this very busy day.
Saturday, November 2 dawned clear and cold. I got up early after sleeping well, and managed to call home from a high spot about 15 minutes from camp. During the call I witnessed a familiar camp dog chasing a light brown fox down the mountain! After seeing me, the dog lost interest in the fox and climbed up on the rock where I stood probably looking for free food. Unsatisfied, she trotted off in search of something more interesting.
Today was a little sad for our team. One of our teammates decided to end his bid for the summit and head home early. We will miss Dan and wish him safe travels back home.
Five of us had an ambitious plan to hike down to Pangboche and back after we ate breakfast. It's been a couple of weeks since we came through Pangboche on our way up the valley, and we looked forward to a change of scenery during yet another rest day. Situated next to a river and surrounded by mountains, it's really a pretty setting.
Down at the river and almost to town we passed the local self-service laundromat. It's always so interesting to learn how different cultures satisfy the same human needs. Behind the washing station were a couple of the hydro-powered prayer wheels similar to the ones we saw earlier in the trip.
A few minutes later we reached our destination on the near side of town - the Hermann Bakery. We've been here before and know that it's the perfect place to hang out. I ordered a cappuccino and a piece of fresh apple and chocolate crumble pie, which put a big smile on my face. My teammates achieved roughly the same state of grace and we sat outside as we enjoyed our treats.
After an hour it was time to head back uphill. Two hours later we were back in base camp for a late lunch. Some people may think that walking 7 or 8 miles round-trip with an elevation gain of over 2,000' is a long way to go for a coffee and a piece of pie, but we all know it was time well spent!
Our big day ended with the best base camp dinner on the menu; chicken sizzler! The Sherpa staff brought in beautifully sauced chicken, spaghetti and vegetables on steaming cast iron fajita skillets. Within moments the dining tent was filled with an amazing aroma and steam. Anna Pfaff has returned for another attempt at a solo Ama Dablam climb, and joined us for an amazing dinner.
Sunday, November 3 was a very low-key day. It started like yesterday with a short walk to get a cell phone signal to call home. On the way back to camp I saw two beautiful Himalayan Snow Cocks (pheasant family). I got to within 10 feet of them and they didn't seem worried at all. It was fun to watch them for a few minutes preening and communicating with each other. I wondered if they were mates. The remainder of the day was spent writing this blog post, reading, hydrating and making more red blood cells.
After breakfast we got our summit rotation food together. The summit rotation plan is for us to spend three nights on the mountain with a contingency night if needed. The Hybrid Team will leave Monday morning and spend the night at Camp 1. The next day they will bypass Camp 2 and sleep at intermediate Camp 2.5, which positions them closer to the summit in a pristine setting. On the third day they'll head for the summit and back to Camp 1 to sleep. The next day they will return to base camp.
My Classic Team will follow the same itinerary one day later. I will leave base camp on Tuesday, November 5 and hopefully summit on November 7! Of course all of these plans are fluid, and no news from me is good news.
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